Jakobsweg: Die letzten 100 Kilometer bis Santiago

Gunter Morgenthal kommt Santiago de Compostella immer näher. Gestern hat er in Palas de Rei übernachtet. Der Jakobsweg und die Herbergen sind jetzt sehr überlaufen, denn die begehrte Compostela bekommt man nur für die letzten 100 Kilometer.

Camino über den Wolken

Pilgern auf dem Jakobsweg

Die rechte Route ist kürzer, aber anstrengender. Alle Fotos: Gunter Morgenthal

Pilgern auf dem Jakobsweg

So stellt man sich den Dschungel vor.

9. Juli: Nach dem Frühstück in Triacastela entscheidet sich Gunter Morgenthal für die rechte, 19 Kilometer lange Route nach Sarria. Sie ist sieben Kilometer kürzer, dafür sehr viel anstrengender. Aber auch um einiges schöner als die linke Route, die über eine leicht zu gehende Straße verläuft. Damit ist aber für den Pilger schon am frühen Morgen Sport angesagt, denn der Weg führt vom ersten Meter an nur nach oben. An einer Bushaltestelle trifft er Elli und Thomas wieder, die sich auf den Heimweg machen, weil sie in der nächsten Woche wieder arbeiten müssen. Noch schnell die Adressen ausgetauscht und weiter geht‘s. „Ich bin einmal mehr vom Camino gefesselt“, schreibt Gunter Morgenthal per WhatsApp. Links und rechts vom Jakobsweg riesige Felsen und drei bis vier Meter hohe Erdwälle, die mit Farnen, Moosen, Wildkräutern und Rankgewächsen überwuchert sind. Ab und an knorrige alte Bäume mit oberflächennahen Wurzeln. „So stelle ich mir einen Dschungel vor“, meint er. Nur wenige Sonnenstrahlen dringen durch das dichte Grün. Auf dem Weg nur Felsen, große Steine oder umgefallene Bäume. Der Anblick lässt die Anstrengungen des Anstiegs vergessen. Zur Stärkung gibt es auf halber Strecke in Furela eine leckere Empanada (Teigpastete) mit Tunfischfüllung. Dann ist der höchste Punkt erreicht und der Buxtehuder befindet sich auf 900 Metern über den Wolken und kann über dem weißen Wolkenteppich die Spitzen der umliegenden Berge sehen.

Pilgern auf dem Jakobsweg.

Letzte Anstrengung für diesen Tag: die lange Treppe.

Pilgern auf dem Jakobsweg.

Ein Garten zum Erholen.

Kurz hinter San Xil beginnt der Abstieg hinunter nach Sarria, das auf 410 Metern liegt. Kurz vor der Herberge heißt es dann noch einmal die Zähne zusammen beißen: es gilt eine megalange Treppe zu bezwingen. Geschafft! Gunter Morgenthal ist der erste Pilger in der Herberg, die über einen wunderschönen Garten mit Springbrunnen und Sonnenliegen unter Weinreben verfügt. Genau die richtige Umgebung, um unter wolkenlosem Himmel Tagebuch zu schreiben.

Der Jakobsweg bevölkert sich

PIlgern auf dem Jakobsweg.

Der Camino ist beidseitig von alten Mauern gesäumt.

Pilgern auf dem Jakobsweg.

Ab hier brauchen Pilger zwei Stempel pro Tag.

10. Juli: Gunter Morgenthal steht heute wieder sehr zeitig auf, damit er spätestens um sieben lospilgern kann. Einige Cafeterias in Sarria haben schon geöffnet. Nach dem Frühstück stehen gleich ein steiler An- und ein ebenfalls steiler Abstieg an. Doch die höchsten Berge liegen für heute hinter dem Pilger, ab jetzt geht es nur noch leicht auf und ab. Der Camino ist hier beidseitig von sehr alten Mauern oder hohen Erdwällen gesäumt. In Barbadelo, Mercado da Serra und Morgade legt er jeweils eine große Pause ein. „Die Landschaft ist einfach nur wunderschön“, schreibt der 55-jährige, „doch es wird voller auf dem Camino!“ Ab Sarria steigen viele spanische Kurzpilger ein. Weil man die begehrte Compostela in Santiago nur dann bekommt, wenn man die letzten 100 – Fahrradpilger 200 – Kilometer bis Santiago gepilgert ist und  in seiner Credencial je zwei Stempel pro Tag nachweisen kann. „Meine vorherigen Stempel zählen nicht“, schreibt er, obwohl schon 33 Etappen auf dem Jakobsweg hinter ihm liegen. Falls er also bis Santiago nicht pro Tag zwei Stempel erhält, könnte es passieren, dass er die Compostella am Ende nicht bekommt. „Das macht Sinn!“ schreibt er ironisch, „aber egal, ich ziehe das durch!“ Es sei ihm inzwischen auch gleichgültig, ob die Herbergen alle voll sind oder nicht. „Zur Not  schlafe ich draußen. Es würde mich nur von meinem Weg abbringen, wenn ich mich damit belaste“. Um halb drei ist Portomarín nach 22,8 Kilometern erreicht. Ein interessanter Ort, der wegen des Belesar-Stausees aus dem Tal ein Stück weit den Hang hinauf verlegt wurde. Dabei wurde die Portalfront der Kapelle San Pedro und ein alter Brückenbogen Stein für Stein abgetragen und am neuen Standort wieder aufgebaut.

Pilgern auf dem Jakobsweg.

Von weitem schon zu sehen: Portomarín am Rio Miño.

Zwischen Pilgern und Rindern

Pilgern auf dem Jakobsweg.

Wolkiger Himmel, doch es ist windstill.

Pilgern auf dem Jakobsweg.

Viel los auf dem Jakobsweg.

11. Juli: Schon in aller Frühe sitzt Gunter Morgenthal in einer Cafeteria beim Frühstück. Um zwanzig vor sieben macht er sich auf den Weg. Nach langer Zeit hängen mal wieder Wolken am Himmel, doch es ist windstill. Angenehme Temperaturen für die rund 25 Kilometer bis nach Palas de Rei. Mit einem halbstündigen Anstieg ist wieder Frühsport angesagt. Aber wenn eine Steigung geschafft ist, kann er sich auf den Geraden oder den Abstiegen wieder entspannen. Der Pilger passiert viele Bergdörfer mit sehr alte Häusern aus Granitsteinen. Die Landschaft ist hier nicht unbedingt grandios, aber dennoch schön. Pinien, Eukalyptusbäume, Brombeerhecken und Wiesen säumen den Jakobsweg, auf dem wieder zahlreiche Pilger und auch schon mal eine Rinderherde unterwegs sind. Die vielen Anstiege sind doch sehr kräftezehrend, deshalb legt Gunter Morgenthal in Gonzar, Casromajor, Vendas de Narón und Portos längere Pausen ein, bis er sein Ziel gegen halb drei erreicht. Er entscheidet sich jetzt häufiger für die letzte Herberge im Ort. „Viele Pilger sind zu erschöpft, um noch durch das ganze Dorf zu laufen“, schreibt er, „dafür bin ich dann am nächsten Morgen auch als erster wieder auf dem Camino!“

Pilgern auf dem Jakobsweg

Gunter Morgenthal passiert viele Bergdörfer mit sehr alten Häusern aus Granitsteinen.

Anmerkung der Redaktion: Alle Etappen von Gunter Morgenthals Pilgerreise auf dem Jakobsweg können Sie hier nachlesen.

343 thoughts on “Vom Camino gefesselt

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