Die Schmerzen im Bein sind abgeklungen
Beim Aufbruch in Viana sind die Straßen noch verlassen. Alle Fotos: Gunter Morgenthal
Seit zehn Tagen pilgert Gunter Morgenthal nun schon über den Jakobsweg. Start war im französischen St. Jean Pied de Port. Gestern Nachmittag hat er nach einer 38 Kilometer langen Etappe zufrieden und ohne Schmerzen Santo Domingo de la Calzada in der Region La Rioja erreicht.
Tipp einer freundlichen Spanierin
15. Juni: Die Morgenstunden, wenn die Sonne noch nicht so brennt, sind die besten zum Pilgern, deshalb ist Gunter Morgenthal gleich um 20 nach sechs in Viana gestartet – ganz ohne Schmerzen, was für ein Glück! Bis Navarrette liegen 22,4 Kilometer vor ihm. Eine Cafeteria zum Frühstücken findet sich nicht, also geht’s in gemäßigtem Tempo los. Bis ins knapp 10 Kilometer entfernte Logroño kann Gunter Morgenthal sein Tempo wieder steigern und kommt in seinen gewohnten Pilgerrhythmus zurück. Das Wetter spielt auch heute mit. „Am Abend hatte es noch leicht geregnet, aber Hauptsache es ist, während ich pilgere, trocken“, sagt er. Seine Fleecejacke, die mit 400 Gramm im Rucksack zu Buche schlägt, hat er unterwegs noch nicht gebraucht. „Nur mein Silber-Shirt, das während der Hitze angenehm kühlt und nicht am Körper klebt“.
Kurz vor Navarrete bekommen Pilger von ihm einen Stempel mit Esel und Pilger.
Gegen 9.00 Uhr kommt er endlich in Logroño an und fragt eine hübsche Spanierin nach einer Cafeteria. Sie empfiehlt ein nettes kleines Lokal in der Nähe und weil sie zufällig in die gleiche Richtung geht, begleitet sie den Pilger ein Stück des Weges. Die Cafeteria ist wirklich sehr einladend, mit Tischen vor der Tür, an die sich zwei Pilger aus England gesellen. Eine halbe Stunde, zwei Cafés con Leche (Milchkaffee), zwei Croissants und einen Zumo de Naranja (frisch gepresster Orangensaft) später geht es weiter. Der Weg durch Logroño zieht sich und am Ortsausgang geht es noch ewig lang durch Parkanlagen, bis endlich die Weinberge von La Rioja zu sehen sind. Es ist warm und angenehm windig. Nacheinander begegnen dem Pilger zwei Urgestalten, die ihm hübsche Sellos (Stempel) in seinen Credencial del Peregrino (Pilgerpass) drücken.
Durch lange Parkanlagen, bis endlich die Weinberge von La Rioja in Sicht kommen.
Kurz vor Navarrete kommt auf einem Berg der haushohe Osborne Stier in Sicht und mit Hilfe einiger Einheimischer ist auch die Herberge schnell gefunden. Spaghetti, Eier und Ketchup, die Gunter Morgenthal im Ort noch schnell einkauft, sind aber für die Katz, denn in der Küche der Herberge gibt es keinen Herd!
Ein perfekter Tag
Ein kühles Bier in Azofra.
16. Juni: Für heute hat sich Gunter Morgenthal vorgenommen, ins gut 22 Kilometer entfernte Azofra zu pilgern. Der Tag beginnt gut: Aufstehen um 6.45 Uhr, ein kleines Frühstück in der Herberge und schon kann es um halb acht losgehen. Es weht ein kalter Wind, aber das Silbershirt reicht völlig aus. Nach genau drei Stunden ist das 17 Kilometer entfernte Nájera schon erreicht. Bei einer kleinen Pause beschließt Gunter Morgenthal daher, heute noch bis nach Santo Domingo de la Calzada durch zu pilgern. Um 12.30 Uhr erreicht er Azofra, genehmigt sich ein kühles Bier und bittet eine junge Amerikanerin, ein Foto von ihm zu machen. Nach 38 Kilometern kommt er gegen 16.00 Uhr in Santo Domingo de la Calzada an. „Es war für mich der perfekte Tag“, schreibt er via WhatsApp. „Keine Schmerzen. Flottes Tempo. Auch bergauf und der kalte Wind war sehr angenehm“. Unterwegs ertappt er sich immer wieder dabei, wie er vor sich hin murmelt: „Mein Gott ist das schön, mein Gott ist das schön!“
„Mein Gott ist das schön!“
Ein typisches Pilgermenü auf dem Jakobsweg
Sein Pilgermenü hat sich Gunter Morgenthal an diesem Abend redlich verdient. Für alle, die es nicht wissen, ein typisches Pilgermenü besteht zum Beispiel aus:
- Salat, Fischsuppe, Spaghetti mit Tomatensoße oder Spargel mit Vinaigrette als Vorspeise
- Schweinelende mit Pommes, Spiegeleier mit Serrano Schinken und Tomatensauce, Fisch des Tages oder Hähnchenflügel als Hauptgang
- Kaffeepudding, Eis oder Käsekuchen zum Nachtisch
Mit Brot und Getränken zahlt man dafür in aller Regel um die 13 Euro.
Anmerkung der Redaktion: Die gesamte Pilgerreise von Gunter Morgenthal auf dem Jakobsweg finden Sie hier.
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