Jakobsweg: Das linke Bein bereitet Probleme

Pilgern auf dem Jakobsweg

Puente la Reina – die Brücke der Königin. Alle Fotos: Gunter Morgenthal

Seit dem 8. Juni pilgert Gunter Morgenthal über den Jakobsweg. Gestartet ist er in St. Jean Pied de Port und hat gestern Mittag Viana erreicht. Ein Spruch begleitet den Pilger schon seit über 40 Jahren: „Geh langsam, lauf nicht, lauf nicht, geh langsam, denn das Kind Deines Ichs kann Dir nicht folgen“. Und weil sein linkes Bein einige Probleme bereitet, muss er sich zwangsläufig an diesen Spruch auch halten:

Wolken und Wind, aber die Sonne lacht

Pilgern auf dem Jakobsweg

Ein paar Schlucke Wein zapfen an der Bodegas Irache.

12. Juni: Von Puente la Reina geht es heute nach Estella. Auf der Strecke liegt am Fuß des über 1.000 Meter hohen Montejurra der Ort Irache, wo sich die Pilger bei der “Bodegas Irache” beliebig Wasser und Wein zapfen dürfen. Der Andrang ist groß und Gunter Morgenthal macht sich den Spaß und fordert einen italienischen Pilger auf, seinen Kopf unter den Strahl zu halten, was dieser zur Begeisterung anderer Pilger auch gleich in die Tat umsetzt. Angekommen in Estalla gönnt sich unser Pilger für diese Nacht mal eine Pension.

13. Juni: Schon um 7.00 Uhr sitzt Gunter Morgenthal in einer Cafeteria beim Frühstück. Für die gut 20 Kilometer nach Los Arcos nimmt er sich Zeit und kommt dort am frühen Nachmittag um halb Drei an. Es ist heiß, doch die Hitze stört ihn nicht. Die Temperaturregulierung seines Silbershirts funktioniert, aber sein linkes Bein macht sich mit einem leichten ziehenden Schmerz in der Kniekehle und in der Leiste bemerkbar.

Neue Mission für den Pilger

Pilgern auf dem Jakobsweg.

Los Arcos: Noch 640 Kilometer bis Santiago.

Unterwegs trifft er immer wieder Pilger, denen er beim Schnüren des Rucksacks behilflich ist. „Das ist jetzt zu meiner Mission geworden“, sagt er. Damit der Rucksack nicht zu einer störenden Belastung wird, sei es ganz wichtig, dass die Schnüre unterhalb der Tragegurte ganz nach unten beziehungsweise nach hinten gezogen werden, während der Rucksack nach oben geschoben wird. Dabei dürfen die Tragegurte nicht auf dem Schlüsselbein aufliegen. Ein Finger muss noch dazwischen passen. „Außerdem muss der Beckengurt ganz fest gezogen werden“ ergänzt er, „und die kurzen Gurte, oberhalb vom Tragegurt müssen bergauf ganz nach vorne gezogen werden, so dass der Rucksack ganz am Körper anliegt“. Bergab müsse man die Gurte wieder lösen, damit der Rucksack nach hinten fallen könne.

14. Juni: Aufstehen um 6.30 Uhr und anschließend ein ausgiebiges Frühstück in einer Cafeteria, zu dem sich Gunter Morgenthal mal richtig Zeit lässt, bevor er zur 7., rund 18 Kilometer langen Etappe von  Los Arcos  nach Viana aufbricht. Das linke Bein bereitet immer noch Probleme, deshalb macht er nach zwei Stunden eine große Pause und holt sich aus einer Apotheke Schmerztabletten und eine Kniebandage. Mit jedem Schritt geht es besser, auch mental. Das Wetter ist ideal zum Pilgern: Wolken und Wind, aber die Sonne lacht! Bei seiner Pilgereise 2013 hatte er für die gleiche Etappe drei Stunden weniger gebraucht. Dieses Mal kommt er nach zwei weiteren größeren Pausen erst gegen 15.00 Uhr in der Herberge an. „Man kommt immer an“, sagt er. „Fragt sich nur, in welchem Zustand?“ Die Tapas-Bar, in der Gunter Morgenthal 2013 die wohl leckersten Tapas der Welt gegessen hatte, hat er nicht wieder gefunden, dafür aber einen Laden, in dem er die leckersten Baguettes aller Zeiten zum Abendbrot gegessen hat.

Pilgern auf dem Jakobsweg.

Wolken und Wind, aber die Sonne lacht! Bei entspanntem Tempo die Landschaft genießen.

Anmerkung der Redaktion: Sollten Sie erst jetzt auf unsere Geschichte gestoßen sein, hier finden Sie alle Etappen von Gunter Morgenthals Pilgerreise auf dem Jakobsweg.

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